SUMMER 2024 - THE WHITE MOUNTAINS
The Presidential Traverse
Over The Summer, I drove up to new hampshire to hike and photograph the white mountains.
The Presidential Traverse is an 18.5 mile alpine route that runs along the Appalachian Trail in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The trail forks off at multiple points that lead up to each of the peaks, ranging in elevation from 4,310’ to 6,288’. Parking is available at either end, with shuttle service available for transportation to and from your car.
The most notable peak along the route is Mount Washington (6,288’), the highest point in the Northeastern United States, and is known for being the "Home of the World's Worst Weather". It was here where the Mount Washington Observatory recorded record breaking wind speeds of 231 miles per hour. Weather on Mount Washington can become very dangerous, very quickly and unexpectedly due to its high elevation among three major, converging weather systems. Even the Summer months of July and August have taken lives due to hypothermia from winter-like conditions. It was interesting to see how the park memorializes those who've died on the presidential range out of respect, but also as warning to not underestimate the unpredictability and danger that can be experienced. It is important to plan ahead and be prepared with proper clothing and supplies, should weather get bad.
After pushing back my original start day due to rain, I began my hike from the Appalachia trailhead at 6:00am on Tuesday, August 13. From here, the trail starts with a wooded 3.5 mile and ~3,500’ climb up to the AMC Madison Spring Hut (4,825’). Once above the tree line, the trail is entirely exposed, rocky terrain which, after 12 hours of hiking on, caused me some sharp shin pain on day two that I had to overcome for the hike back. The forecast had indicated that the clouds at the higher elevations would begin to clear by afternoon, but the dense fog remained for almost the entirety of the day.
I summited Mount Washington at 12:45pm where I stopped to rest, eat and wait for the fog to move out. Brief moments of hope flashed by, before I made the decision to move on in the interest of time. As I descended toward Mount Monroe (5,384’), I found myself in a clearing below the clouds, even if just for a couple of hours, where I was able to take in my first views in the White’s and grab some photos around Lakes of the Clouds, before wind and fog rolled back in for the rest of the night.
AMC Lakes of the Clouds Hut from Mt. Monroe
My original plan was to hike out and back to my car in one day, but with the fog preventing me from getting to take in any of the views, and my optimism in that the next day's forecast continued to show promise for clear skies through the afternoon, I made arrangements to spend the night at the AMC Lakes of the Clouds Hut and begin my hike back in the morning.
The Lakes of the Clouds Hut is operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club. AMC is a conservation organization that maintains huts along the AT, all surrounded by uniquely beautiful views, offering day hikers a place to stop for information and shelter, while providing overnight guests warm bunks and home-cooked meals for those who reserve in advance. They also offer a “work-for-stay” program to thru-hikers, who can volunteer for free hot meals and dry shelter for the night. It was fun to hang out and hear their stories from along the way. I love spending time on the Appalachian Trail most for that reason. You cross paths with many interesting people who are on their own journeys with their own sets of challenges, whether they’re hiking a short segment or they are passing through one of their many stops between Georgia and Maine.
View from Mount Clay
I woke up Wednesday morning to clear skies, looking out over the layers of mountains all around me. The Mount Washington Cog Railway carried visitors up to the observatory as I began my 9 mile trek back to the trailhead. I was excited for the clear views and to take my time hiking back, stopping on top of Mount Clay (5,533’) and Mount Jefferson (5,712’) to set up my camera and take photos, before heading down into the trees and arriving back at my car. This trail was a good challenge and offered me a new view of New Hampshire that I’d never experienced before.
New Hampshire had always been more of a drive-thru state for me, and I would always happen to drive through during the Winter months. Driving to the top of Mount Washington is an experience that I’ve always thought about when in the area, but had never been able to do since the road is only open from May through November. With more rain forecasted for Thursday, I planned for this to be a recovery day, which was the perfect opportunity to finally experience the Mount Washington Auto Road, with rain and fog passing through to create some epic scenes.
The Auto Road is a two-lane, 7.6 mile drive with an elevation gain of over 4,000’, featuring steep drop-offs with no guardrails. The road is so steep that I had to leave my car in first gear the entire way down. It’s an exhilarating experience that offers spectacular views of the valley.
Looking out from a pull-off along the Mt. Washington Auto Road
Franconia Ridge
I finished off my trip with a day hike along another segment of the Appalachian Trail: Franconia Ridge.
Franconia Ridge is one of the most popular hikes in New England. This trail loop is certainly no stroll, but you are absolutely rewarded, both above and below the tree line, for the effort you put in. The route begins with a 1.25 mile wooded hike on the Falling Waters trail, which runs along a brook and leads up to Cloudland Falls. For a short, shaded hike, this alone can be a worth while destination for an out-and-back.
From the falls, the trail continues for another 1.5 miles as you climb roughly 2,000 feet to the top of Little Haystack Mountain (4,760’). Once above the trees, you are instantly surrounded by breathtaking, 360 degree views of the White Mountains, which only get better as you continue over Mount Lincoln (5,089’), and summit Mount Lafayette (5,249’). Stunning layers of mountains in every direction. From Lafayette, the trail “T’s” and hikers can continue along the AT, or drop down on the boulder-filled trail to the AMC Greenleaf Hut, before continuing back down to the trailhead.
Franconia Ridge Trail, looking back toward Little Haystack
Cloudland Falls
Clouds rolling through the White Mountains as the sun sets, from Mt. Lafayette
In the hours leading up to sunset, dense fog and cold air began rolling through. I spent my time on Lafayette chatting with a few of the AT thru-hikers who were working their way up to Mount Katahdin in Maine, waiting out the weather in hopes that the sky would clear in time. As time passed, conditions did not seem likely to improve. I decided to get up and roam around for shots that could take advantage of the weather I was faced with. A short ways down on the Northern side of Lafayette offered interesting views of the clouds rolling through the mountains. The haze from Canadian wildfires allowed the sun to appear as an orange dot in the sky. It wasn’t the grand, colorful image I had envisioned when I started the day, but I really like how all of the elements came together. This shot is an example of embracing the conditions you are given. For me, this image reinforces the idea to not dismiss the potential that inclement weather can offer. It’s a reminder to not get so hyper-set on a specific landscape image since so much is out of your control, and to not get caught up in expectations, but remain in, and enjoy the present.
Overall, this was a very successful trip for me and I am happy with how this week went. I was able to accomplish my training goals while coming away with a set of images I am proud of. I left New Hampshire feeling satisfied, along with a strong desire to return for more.